A day in Osaka - the backstreets

byDianeM83

185 followers

3 years ago

Hello to you! After my day in Kyoto and a half day in Nara, Osaka was the last town I visited during this three-day trip in Japan. I have to say, it was my favorite! I loved the mix between modernity with the skyscrapers and the more traditional areas like Osaka Castle, one of the largest stone-walled building in Japan. Moreover, I signed up to a tour to discover the backstreets of Osaka and enjoy some traditional meals : it was AMAZING! Not only did I discover the town in another way, but I also learned a LOT about the Japanese mentality.

Osaka castle - a green setting between the skyscrapers

The famous General Toyotomi Hideyoshi, or the "Napoleon of Japan" as I like to call him, began construction of Osaka Castle in 1583. Not only was it the largest in Japan at the time but it was to be the center of a unified Japan under the rule of the Toyotomi clan. Two years after Hideyoshi's death in 1598, however, his military rival Tokugawa Ieyasu defeated Toyotomi's troops at the great Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. This decisive victory gave the Tokugawa full control over all of Japan, leading to the beginning of the Tokugawa shogunate and the Edo period in 1603 (check my article one Kyoto to have more information about the Tokugawas)
During the Boshin War in 1868, the castle was taken by pro-imperial forces. The new Meiji government demolished the castle and installed military barracks in the compound. The castle was rebuilt in 1931, but to serve as a military arsenal. As a result, it was targeted by U.S. forces during World War II and the rebuilt main tower was destroyed again. The current reconstruction was completed in 1997. Made of concrete to the specifications of the original tower, it now houses a museum documenting the tumultuous history of the castle.

This castle and its park is a green setting between the skyscrapers. To enjoy the view, you have two choices : either visit the museum in the castle and climb the stairs to the top or go and have a drink at the bar rooftop in the english-looking building before reaching the castle.

Shinsekai - the retro area of Osaka

If you are looking to step back in time, you should definitely visit Shinsekai. In Japanese, "shin" means new and "shinsekai" means "New world". Filled with arcade machines, neon light, hidden bars (with delicious street food!), this famous district throws us back in the early 1900s.

Indeed, Shinsekai was built in 1912 in three years! The southern part of Shinsekai reminds us of Coney Island with its arcades and mechanical rides (it even has its own version of Luna Park funfair from New York!), whereas the northern part is based one Paris, with the Tsutenkaku Tower, often compared to the Eiffel tower. This tower was unfortunately destroyed during WWII and rebuilt, in a much bigger size, in 1956, designed by Tachu Naito, the man behind the Tokyo Tower and Sapporo TV tower. At night, the top of the tower indicated the weather forecast for the following day with a code color.

The hidden part of Shinsekai is that it generated the homeless area (yes, this is a thing in Osaka). Indeed, Shinsekai was built in three years, this meant, there were a lot of work during three years. Many men came to Osaka to work and send back their earnings to their family. However, this did not always go as planned and many would get drunk after work and spend their money in the red light district. At the end, these men were out of work without any money. Japanese pride prevented them from asking a loan to friends and family and many did not return after the end of Shinsekai. Indeed, a man must be able to provide for him and his family, IE he must have a job. These men regrouped in an area just one the other side of the road and this has been the homeless area ever since.

ANECDOTE : it is a 100% men in this area because women are "allowed" not to have jobs seeing as, in the Japanese mentality, are supposed to be taking care of the children. Thus, it is easier for a jobless woman to find a job than for a man.

Red light district - or how to enjoy an expensive tea

On your way to the red light district, you will cross many abandoned houses. This area being so close to two poorly-rated districts, no Japanese will buy or live there as it would bring shame to their family. However, foreigners have found a very good deal and have bought some of these houses at a very low price and transformed them into airbnbs. Businessmen, if you have an extra 80K lying around, this is your opportunity to transform your money!

The red light district has three streets : one for the 20yo women, one the for 30yo women and one for the 40yo women. Each young women sits there with a "mama". However, prostitution is illegal in Japan so how come does this district exist? The local mafia has found a loophole into the law : the prostitutes are indeed waitresses! The "client" will pay an excessive amount of money for tea and snacks and will have to take a sip of his tea and a bite into the snacks before going into further affairs : two consenting adults falling in love!

Of course, there is much more to discover in Osaka but I did not want to spoil all the tour for you! So here are some insights and if you are interested, sign up for this tour here! It is rather cheap for the amount of information you get (and the food you eat!) and it takes place in the late afternoon so you can enjoy the whole day and the evening with your friends either way.

Let me know in the comments your thoughts and your experience!

My hotel (near the metro and the station) : Hotel Wing