A Day Trip To The Inian Islands Institute

byFKelso

3.5K followers

Updated 5 years ago

On Wednesday of this week I traveled by boat with 22 other people to the Hobbit Hole, home of the Inian Islands Institute.

We had maybe an hour+ ride on a stunningly beautiful day. The boat, called the "Three Wolves," is a whale-watching boat, which means it is the size of a small bus. It has a covered cabin with windows running the length of each side, so you can't miss the ocean views of islands, mountains, and creatures such as whales, otter, and sea lions.

A young Gustavus friend, Zach Brown, a Stanford graduate, started the institute. The school (Stanford) is heavily invested in the project. On the front of their little brochure, it says: "Inspiring rising environmental leaders through experiential living and learning in the wilderness of Southeast Alaska."

This non-profit field school in the heart of Southeast Alaska is dedicated to education, science, and environmental leadership. Students learn through wilderness exploration, field-based science, and authentic Alaskan homestead life such as fishing, gardening, and chopping wood

When we arrived, I saw why the place had the name, "Hobbit Hole." Only one narrow passage led into the large, elliptical bay, and our boat had to go in at high tide to make it through. The captain later moved the boat outside the little bay to anchor, and when we left, smaller boats ferried us out to it.

A few folks from Hoonah, the closest town to Gustavus, accompanied us. The Inian Islands were the traditional hunting grounds of Native Hoonah people, and the Hobbit Hole served as a main camp during fishing season.

We met Ken Grant, who is one of the last living old-time fishing captains. "Kenny G, they called me," he said.

When we finally left the boat at the Hobbit Hole, Kenny performed a little ritual, giving greetings to the ancestors who still guarded the spot. He did the prayer in Tlingit and translated for us.

The Inian Islands lie at the western edge of Icy Straits. To the west of them is the vast Gulf of Alaska. The Inians are called the gatekeepers to the Northern entrance of the Inside Passage. I could not find out how many islands in the group, but there are several.

What a perfect day! We explored the near area, lounged in the sun, and went on a tour given by Zach of their buildings, with explanations of their purpose. Meanwhile, work crews dug up new garden areas and built new beds, or chopped wood.

I noticed that they followed Native wisdom with their potatoes, mulching them well with seaweed. It contains lots of nutrients that those spuds need, and produces a great crop.

We visited an old grave marker halfway up a hill. The marker, dated 1901, was well into the woods. At one time the beach came close to that grave, but shifting land caused the water to recede a considerable distance.

The work crew fed all of us. We added pot luck dishes we'd brought along. We had a feast.

Then we got in small boats which ferried us out to the Three Wolves, and we headed home.

This is a picture of a boat coming out the narrow entrance to the bay where the Hobbit Hole is located.

On the way out, the captain took us past a long rock cliff face where the names of the old fishing boats were painted, some very faded, but all still visible. We passed a large rock with 7 or 8 sea lions sunning themselves. Wish I'd had camera in hand, drat it!

Then Kenny G. pointed out a rock that they called "Indian Head" because it looked like the profile of an old Indian. He also talked about an area of water close by called "the laundry", filled with whirlpools and strange currents. He said when the wind came up it tossed you around out there like a washing machine.

We enjoyed a smooth trip home. I am so glad I had the chance to go!

If anyone would like more information about the Inian Islands Institute, here is Zach Brown's email address: zwbrown@inianislandsinstitute.org